Rome, Sweet Rome

Last updated: May 2024
Rome was my favorite city before I even first arrived. I've been obsessed with maps and foreign countries since elementary school. Rome was at the top of my destination list even back then. No matter where I am in the city, I love to stop and just think about where I'm standing and how much history took place right around me from BC times through World War II and up to the present day. It's the city that keeps on giving as quickly or as slowly as you want it to. By that I mean that you can make a whirlwind of a trip to Rome or take it leisurely at all the relaxing, tranquil spots that seem like settings from a fantasy film of the past. You don't have to be a history buff to enjoy the beauty and uniqueness of the Eternal City.

Obviously the most famous building in Rome is the Colosseum (my favorite man-made creation in the world). It held gladiator shows, executions, and gory battles. The Romans used it for entertainment for almost 400 years. While there are other Roman arenas still standing in the world (like the one in Verona), the Colosseum is likely the most famous. Going inside allows you to picture the arena's former glory: the stands filled with 50,000 people, the emperor showing off the strength of his empire, and the notorious warriors with fangirls as if they were in a boyband. You can also see the intricacies that were once underneath the stage as well, a testament to the Romans' highly advanced engineering. All of this makes it hard to believe that the Colosseum was built in 81 AD. Come back at night to see golden lights shining in each of the Colosseum's arches as well.

Inside the Colosseum

Colosseum and Arch of Constantine at night

A visit to the Colosseum puts you in the midst of the most iconic Roman ruins that the city has to offer. Next to the Colosseum is the Arch of Constantine (Arco di Costantino) built in honor of emperor Constantine. Paris' Arc du Carroussel and Arc de Triomphe, and London's Marble Arch are based on the design of Constantine's arch. The arch is in the area known as the Roman Forum (Foro Romano). In the Roman Empire, a forum was the heart of the city, serving as government headquarters, meeting points, and religious centers. Notable structures visible in the Roman Forum include the Temple of Saturn, Temple of Vesta, the Arch of Titus, and the Arch of Severus.

The Roman Forum and the Colosseum are walking distance from Capitoline Hill (Campidoglio), a major site for the founding of Rome. The top of the hill's steps was designed by Michelangelo. The museums to either side of the statue of emperor Marcus Aurelius on horseback are not free but the views of the Roman Forum behind the Palazzo Senatorio (the front facing building behind the aforementioned statue) are free and expansive. This is one of the reasons why I don't see the need to pay to go inside of the Forum itself unless you want to really get up close to the buildings inside. You can see the whole forum without going inside of the gates. Behind Capitoline Hill is just one of those ways to do so.

Arch of Constantine and Colosseum

Arch of Constantine as seen from Colosseum

steps leading to Capitoline Hill

View of the Roman Forum from back of Capitoline Hill

You will see multiple forums as you walk along along Via dei Fori Imperiali between the Colosseum and Capitoline Hill. These forums are named after the emperors who commissioned them. They include the Forum of Augustus (Foro di Augusto) and Trajan's Market (Mercati di Traiano) one one side of the street and Julius Caesar's Forum on the other. Trajan's Market also features the incredibly detailed Trajan's Column (Colonna Traiana). You can't miss it. Across the street from Trajan's Market is the Altar of the Fatherland (Altare della Patria) at the Piazza Venezia. This large white building is not so affectionately called the "wedding cake" or "the typewriter." Many Italians do not like the monument. However, it is immaculate with huge statues and views of the surrounding ruins. It honors Italy's first king and WWI soldiers.

Forum of Augustus

Trajan's Forum

Trajan's Column

Altar of the Fatherland

View from Altar of the Fatherland

The Theater of Marcellus (Teatro di Marcello) is a lesser known section of Roman ruins located on the same street as Capitoline Hill further toward the Tiber River. What I like about this is the grass and flowers because it reminds me of villa ruins often seen in Italy's countryside. Its construction began during the reign of Julius Caesar and it is older than the Colosseum.

Theater of Marcellus

The Castel Sant'Angelo is an example of Roman constructions being re-purposed as history went on in Rome. It began as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian in 139 AD. Centuries later it became a fortress for popes during tense times, including the monumental sack or Rome in 1527. Today the Castel displays the living quarters of these popes and the history of its military use, which lasted until the 20th century. The location of the Castel makes it a perfect place to get beautiful views of Rome and the Vatican from multiple parts of the monument as you make your way to the top. Visiting the Castel was one of my favorite parts of my last visit to Rome.

Castel Sant'Angelo

view of Vatican City from Castel Sant'Angelo

One of the things that makes Rome unique to me is the fact that this ancient city with layers and layers of complexity (and sometimes lots of tourist crowds) also has tranquil, chilled out areas. One of these places is not far from the Circus Maximus (Circo Massimo). Up around winding pathways is the Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden). It is next to a large basilica from 422 AD, has shade from large trees, places to sit or picnic, and offers a view of the city for free. I like big views if you can't tell, especially when they're cheap.

Basilica at Giardino degli Aranci

Ruins of Circus Maximus

Giardino degli Aranci

view from Giardino degli Aranci

A larger park area is the Villa Borghese. To get here, take the stairs leading to the balcony that over looks the Piazza del Popolo. This area has fountains, recreational space, a lake, gardens, and tons of trees. Villa Borghese comes as a surprise given that Rome is a big city with 4 million people and is known for being an OG metropolitan city. Walking around both Giardino Degli Aranci and Villa Borghese makes you feel like you're not even in one of the world's most well-known cities anymore. These places are great ways to balance the hustle and bustle of trying to see all of Rome's iconic locations with beautiful, peaceful areas for relaxation as well.

Villa Borghese

Fountain depicting Moses at Villa Borghese

Climb the steps to this terrace overlooking Piazza del Popolo

As the Roman Empire was the first civilization to have running water, Rome is known for being dotted with famous fountains. The most popular is the Trevi Fountain (Fontana di Trevi). Here is where everyone throws a coin over their shoulder to make a wish. The coins are donated to charities. I thought the Trevi might be kind of overrated, but it really is gorgeous. The famous Piazza Navona is home to the Fountain of Four Rivers (Fontana dei Fiumi) crafted by the world-renowned artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini. Aside from this fountain, Piazza Navona has gorgeous buildings and sometimes less people than at the Trevi.

Trevi Fountain

Piazza Navona

Close-up of Bernini's fountain in Piazza Navona

Another lovely fountain called Fontana dell'Acqua Paola is located in the chic, bohemian Italian neighborhood area called Trastevere. and is much less crowded than the Trevi. The Trastevere neighborhood is on the west side of the Tiber River and its small, winding streets feel authentically Italian with lively but not too crowded places to eat or grab drinks. Also in the area is the Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere with incredible golden mosaics from the 12th century. Like most of Rome, Trastevere is best explored on foot.

Cute corners of Trastevere

narrow streets with laundry in Trastevere

interior of Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere

Vatican City (Città del Vaticano) is one of the most popular places to visit while in Rome and is located inside of Rome itself. It is the smallest country in the world and the only inhabitants are those who work for the buildings within its borders. The main figure here is of course the Pope, the leader of the Catholic Church worldwide. Mass is still held in the gigantic St. Peter's Basilica (Basilica di San Pietro). The dome of this structure is visible in the Rome skyline from multiple locations, including Giardino Degli Aranci, Castel Sant'Angelo, and Piazza del Popolo. The basilica houses Michelangelo's Pieta, a sculpture of Mary holding the deceased body of Jesus. There ain't a dry eye in the house with this one. At the time that Michelangelo lived, all artwork was for religious purposes. Therefore, no artist was allowed to sign their artwork. However, Michelangelo overheard people talking about his Pieta and attributing it to a different artist. So Michelangelo secretly signed his sculpture. The basilica is free to go inside, but this is only part of what Vatican City offers.

in front of St. Peter's Basilica

A visit to Vatican City should actually start at the Vatican Museums (Musei Vaticani), which include statues of ancient Roman gods, goddesses, and historical leaders. After the museums, enter the Sistine Chapel (Cappella Sistina) for some of the most powerful paintings ever created, and possibly Michelangelo's most famous work. The chapel includes a scene of The Last Judgement and The Creation of Adam on the ceiling. To go inside of the chapel and the basilica, everyone must wear clothing that covers their shoulders and knees. Also, taking photos is not allowed inside the Sistine Chapel. Finish the excursion with St. Peter's Basilica. There is likely a line to enter, but it usually moves quickly.

Statues in the Vatican Museums

Throughout Rome, keep your eye out for Stolperstein blocks. These gold squares on pavement honor civilians lost during World War II. They are sometimes placed in front of where the person lived before being forced into concentration camps. Notice that in the below photo, the squares indicate that these people in particular died in Auschwitz. Seeing any Stolpersteins is depressing, but the worst part is how far they reach. They exist from Norway to Greece and many in between. However, the best part about Stolpersteins is knowing that people haven't forgotten about these victims.

Stolpersteins on a sidewalk

Like most major cities of Europe, Rome is the setting for famous Hollywood movies like Gladiator, The Lizzie McGuire Movie, The Man from U.N.C.L.E., Mission: Impossible - Dead Reckoning Part One, Ben Hur, and When in Rome to name a few. Audrey Hepburn's classic film Roman Holiday, made her an icon for Rome and made her an Academy Award winner. Famous sites in Roman Holiday are all over the city, especially at the Spanish Steps (Scalinata di Trinità dei Monti). This area gets pretty crowded, but you can have your Audrey Hepburn moment here. I clearly enjoyed mine.

photo courtesy of solo travel ingenuity

Spanish Steps

Not everyone I've met who has previously visited Rome has liked it. As with any city, Rome has its imperfections. There are homeless people and pushy salespeople trying to sell souvenirs, selfie sticks, or bags whether you show interest or not. And sometimes its pretty crowded. However, Rome is my favorite city in the world. I describe how I feel about Rome by comparing to having more than one child and one is a little weird, but secretly that child is your favorite and you don't like it when other people say negative things about him/her. I find myself thinking about Rome nearly every day, trying to remember every detail. When it is impossible to do so, I come close to putting Rome back on the top of my list of places to visit as soon as I can. An internet joke stating that men think about the Roman Empire quite often (if not daily) made its rounds in early 2024. Well, women can also think about it every day. I guess I've been ahead of the game on that one. What's your Roman Empire? Is it actually the Roman Empire too? If so, we should be best friends.

Transportation Tips:
  • Rome has a solid metro (subway) system, but walking is the best way to see the city as the cutest corners of it are not easily accessible by car. 
  • Open-top bus tours are nice for cities like Paris, London, or even Los Angeles. However, because Rome has so many areas of ancient ruins and narrow streets, large buses cannot go in close to the colorful neighborhoods or even some major tourist attractions like the Spanish Steps and the Trevi. Put on your walking shoes and let yourself get lost in another world.
Last, but not least, a huge thank you to my middle and high school Latin teacher, Mrs. White. In her classes, I got to geek out to my heart's desire and make wonderful memories, including going to a Latin class convention with other schools and receiving my "I love Latin" button. Ride, Ama, Disce! (Laugh, Love, Learn!)

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