Nice, Nicer, and Nicest: A French Riviera Sampler Platter

The scenery of the French Riviera is a far cry from Paris. When looking at pictures of this region, you might not even realize that it is France at all. The vibrant blue water (hence the nickname Côte d'Azur), the pastel buildings of all different colors, boardwalks, marinas, you name it. These contrasts from stereotypical France is because the Riviera is part of Europe’s Mediterranean region (which spans multiple countries), but it still feels like its own little world rather than part of this bigger geographic descriptor. My favorite part was how much French I heard around the towns. I’m a Paris apologist, but it is quite cosmopolitan. The French Riviera is authentic France mixed with a vintage resort.

What the French Riviera does share with Paris is the upscale, A-list connotations that come with France. Royals and other fancy people have been coming here for over 200 years, as have artists like Pablo Picasso and the Rolling Stones. Every spring, celebrities flock to Cannes for the annual Cannes Film Festival and to Monte Carlo for the Monaco Grand Prix Formula 1 race. Resorts in Saint-Tropez also see famous faces year-round. Huge yachts dock in multiple French Riviera cities too. No matter when you visit, it is fun to hang out in places that seem rather exclusive, even if only at certain times each year. Nice (pronounced “niece”) is one of the larger cities on the French Riviera, and without so much of the previously mentioned air of exclusivity. Promenade des Anglais (a.k.a. “le Prom”) is a well-known hangout in Nice. It is a paved walkway with the beach on one side and a mixture of both vintage and modern pastel buildings on the other side. Photos of this part of town could easily make for some shabby chic wall decor.

Keep going west on Le Prom to find a tall, rocky hill, which is mostly taken up by a free-to-access park called Colline du Château. There isn’t an actual château (castle), but you will find amazing views. As Le Prom curves around this hill, it leads you to the start of the path that goes up to these views.

Further west from Colline du Château is Nice’s port. Boats of all sizes are docked here, but the rows of small boats stood out to me the most. Each was a different color, almost as if it was planned that way. These little rows of color really pop against the backdrop of Colline du Château’s cliffside greenery. Get up close to them so you can see each of their names.

Nice is incredibly historic. Despite the passing of centuries, you can still tell that Nice’s Arènes de Cimiez was once a Roman arena. You can also walk around it for free. Lots of arches reminiscent of other famous Roman Empire arenas are still intact. And as with many places in Europe, the journey to the arena is half the fun. You’ll pass by ornate building after ornate building on the way to the park area that surrounds Arènes de Cimiez. Locals were setting up little food stands and practicing yoga here, literally just around the corner from an ancient Roman arena. What a life.

The self-explanatory part of town called Old Nice features the Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate de Nice. Though there have been modifications, a cathedral and relics of Sainte-Réparate have been here since the mid-1000s. The pastel buildings around the cathedral look like those seen in Italy. France AND Italy in one place?! Sign me up.

Another place that mixes aesthetics of France and Italy is Villefranche-sur-Mer. This little town is just minutes from Nice by train. The way the narrow and steep streets layer themselves among the hills is something I could stare at forever. Villefranche-sur-Mer feels extremely local too, as people were just going about their days – but in the setting of a Disney movie. The brightly colored buildings look worn down in the most perfect amounts to create the vintage charm that I am always chasing in Europe. Highly recommend.

The last place I was lucky enough to sample along the French Riviera (so far) was Monaco. It is a separate country despite being smaller than Central Park in NYC. Its capital Monte Carlo takes up the entire country. Monaco is a tax haven, which means lots of rich people make it their permanent residence. *Bernie Sanders voice* THE ONE PERCENT! Along the streets and in front of the ritzy Monte Carlo Casino (Casino de Monte-Carlo) was a Ferrari. A Bugatti shop was close by too. As you gawk at the yachts in Monte Carlo’s port, you’ll walk past stores for designer brands like Prada and Miu Miu. Not a T.J. Maxx in sight. I hoped I’d come across one of the pro tennis players who call this luxury wonderland home, even if they do so just for tax purposes. But alas, instead my souvenir ended up being a Chanel perfume sample card that I found on the sidewalk. Monte Carlo is a gambling hotspot, but with a different environment than Las Vegas. Las Vegas has options for a wide range of people, while Monte Carlo feels more high society - as if you should be wearing an elegant hat while you gamble. It’s no wonder so many casino heist, James Bond, and other glamorous movies have been filmed here. Monaco has a royal family, which includes iconic American actress Grace Kelly. She married Rainier III, Prince of Monaco in 1956. There is a monument to them both in front of Monte Carlo Casino and quite a few places are named after Princess Grace. The royal family lives in the Prince's Palace of Monaco (Palais Princier). The uphill road to get here gives some incredible views of Monaco, which like Villefranche-sur-Mer, is packed with buildings that rise and fall with the hills. But as you can guess, Monaco’s buildings are much more modern than rustic. This makes for an interesting juxtaposition against the older parts of the palace’s hilltop, which has walls and little lookout towers dating back centuries.

The train ride back to Nice from Monte Carlo was the most crowded train I’ve ever been on. We were packed in like sardines barely able to get all our limbs inside the doors. This came as a surprise because nowhere else on the Riviera felt very crowded, not even Monte Carlo. At least it was only a 20 minute ride. Food around the French Riviera is another thing that is authentically French, but with a little bit of Italian or otherwise Mediterranean flair. I had pasta, a croque monsieur sandwich, and croissants (I think. Snacks became a blur). Thanks to the weather, you can eat outside for most of the year. To find restaurants catering to locals rather than tourists, you have to walk a few blocks away from the major tourist attractions. However, pasta next to the port in Nice was pretty cool. Eventually I’ll plan another trip to the French Riviera part of the Mediterranean, particularly to the little hilly town of Eze. It is not directly on the coast, but looks just as quaint as the little towns that do have oceanfront property. Don’t tell anyone about Eze though. I need to see it before it becomes a very much un-hidden gem. Stay tuned.

For more on why seeking out such hidden gems is important, click here for more Riviera know-how.